Hadow's Letters
Trigger Warning: These letters document violence and brutality. If you are sensitive to these topics please proceed with caution.
“A certain amount of looting was done here and I have got one or two nice things but I will tell you about them in my next letter as I must stop now to catch the post.”
Lt Arthur Hadow, Camp Gyantse, 18.04.1904.
Lt Arthur Lovell Hadow is responsible for taking and looting the Tibetan objects in the Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum, here in this digital archive. Below in quotes from his letters he details the looting he initiated and took part in when acquiring this objects during the British Expedition to Tibet.
Arthur Lovell Hadow, a soldier of the British Empire
Arthur Hadow was typical of the young men attracted to army life as a source of adventure and an opportunity to travel around the British Empire. Born in 1877, the son of a Kent vicar, he went to a public school and gained a commission into the Norfolk Regiment in 1898. He served as Transport Officer in Waziristan on the North West Frontier (1901-1902), Tibet (1903-1904), South Africa with the Mounted Infantry, The Congo with the Egyptian Army (1906), the Sudan Civil Service and as Inspector at Kadugli, in the Nuba Mountains (1912).
(Right) Image of Lt Arthur Hadow, courtesy of the Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum.
Role in the British Expedition to TIbet (the Younghusband Expedition)
The Machine Gun Section of the 1st Battalion, Norfolk Regiment formed part of the armed escort for Younghusband’s ‘Political Mission’ into Tibet in 1903. It consisted of 17 men and two Maxim machine guns commanded by Lt. Hadow. The Norfolks accompanied Younghusband almost everywhere he went, while the bulk of the Military escort often remained at larger bases for ease of transport and communication.
The Maxims were central to the defence of the Mission when under siege at Gyantse. Short bursts of fire at Guru had a devastating effect on the Tibetans who had never seen such a weapon before.
Hadow wrote an account of the expedition for the Regimental Magazine in 1933, but his letters home are much more revealing. He was very upset by the action at Guru, 'I got so sick of the slaughter that I ceased fire, although the general's order was to make as big a bag as possible' .. 'I hope I shall never have to shoot men down walking away again.'
Context Provided by The Royal Norfolk Regimental Museum, Norwich, UK.
Read the Letters
These are a selection of Hadow's letters directly relating to the looting of the objects in this archive.
You can see the full transcription of all his letters in this PDF.
“I picked up a few [Tibetan] arms as trophies which I hope to see in the Vicarage at Sutton some day.”
Hadow, Camp Thuna, 03.04.1904.
“One room was found which apparently was the place where they manufactured and stored a lot of images and other things connected with their religious ritual.
"Everything which appeared worth having was taken and after some things had been set aside for the British Museum the remainder was divided amongst the officers."
"Three small images fell to my share of no particular value beyond being curiosities. After all this loot had been divided anyone was allowed to go into the fort and take what they liked (there being practically nothing left). However, I happened to hear of a certain room which was rather hard to find and which I fancied might have been overlooked. So the next morning I and another officer set off about 7am to pay this room a visit. We found it without much difficulty and practically untouched. There were several small rooms and they were rather like an old curiosity shop with all sorts of rubbish and the dust and soot of ages over everything. There was some ancient armour, an old tiger skin, clothes and all sorts of things.
"We did not find much worth having at first but, presently, in a dark corner, I discovered what appeared to be a cupboard with two doors and sealed up. I was not long getting this open! It was pitch dark inside but the first thing I touched rattled it being hung from the ceiling and I recognised it as being a Lamas apron made of human bones and beautifully carved. Knowing this to be of some value I seized on it at once.
"Like everything else it was black with dirt and it is rather a gruesome object but the carving on the larger pieces of bone is quite splendid. Having cut down this work of art I discovered behind it an enormous image of some deity almost hidden by silk handkerchiefs and scarves which covered it and which are given as offerings. Everything was very dirty and the dust which we stirred up was choking and I now have a very sore throat, I think as a result of it! There were two somewhat smaller images on either side of the big one but I was disappointed to find no precious stones set in any of them which is often their custom!
"While groping about in the dark I put my hand on something which I pulled out and discovered to be a model of a ‘chorten’. A chorten is a kind of religious monument which is very common in Tibet and often contains the remains of an important lama. The model was black and grimed with dirt. On cleaning off some of the dirt yesterday afternoon I discovered it to be made of copper and it appears to be plated with gold. It is set with small turquoises and coral. It is a very handsome thing and when properly clean will look very fine indeed.
“We picked up various odds and ends but nothing of particular value beyond being curiosities. I found a trumpet made out of human thigh bone and there was several skulls with offerings in them in front of the images.
“By the time we finished rummaging the place was in chaotic confusion in which state we left it! I was much afraid that if the authorities heard of what I had got some of the things would be appropriated for the “British Museum” so I have packed up the best of them and they are leaving tomorrow."
Hadow, Camp Gyantse, 18.04.1904.
“The next day an armistice was declared which lasted for a couple of days so I took the opportunity to ride over to the monastery to do a little looting! I know by this time the best places to search so we had brought some lanterns with us and I at once made for the cellars where we found some things hidden away. We only had time to visit a few of the buildings so did not get very much and we then had to divide the things between the three of us. I got a rather nice gong which no doubt you will find useful when I am able to get it home.”
Hadow, Camp Gyantse, 04.07.1904.
“The following day I went over with Colonel Younghusband to have a look at the place which was most interesting. There were lots of dead Tibetans lying about mostly killed by the shells which in many cases inflict fearful wounds. I saw one man with both legs blown clean off!
"After I had inspected the Jong I went down to do a little looting in the big monastery at the back of the Jong. I had some of my own men and 2 lamas with me. I was great fun!
"All the doors were locked but we found a sledge hammer then not a single door withstood me. I went through the 3 big buildings but the Tibetans had taken away or hidden most of their things.
“On coming out of the last building we found that the General of the force had arrived on the scene and had prohibited looting so I had to hurriedly leave without my loot I am sorry to say as I had got some rather nice things and am rather afraid that I shall not see them again though we arranged for the lama to hide them and bring them in when the coast was clear."
Hadow, Camp Gyantse, 11.07.1904.
